Thisa Way and Thata Way

In runners parlance, today was one of the bad days that you have to get through to get to the good days, aka "The Grind". Even though it is lightly raining, and everything is wet, I set out to visit some art galleries in the northern part of Shanghai. I took two subway trains to the main Shanghai Railroad Station. This trip looked simple on the map, but when I hit the ground, it was a different story. I walked to the edge of the enormous plaza that lays out in front of the railway station, itself a huge, modern looking building, and didn't recognize any of the street names from my map. This was not the glamorous Najing Road or the Bund from the travel books. This was very gritty and I'll admit more than a little intimidating.

So back on the subway, to Peoples Square (I'll use the short version, but you all know it's true name) and I'll convert today into a trip to YuYuan Garden, which everyone recommends; if you can get past the tea toddling teenagers. This area is a lot more comfortable for strolling. Once again, the street names are not quite jiving with what I have on my Periplus Travel Map, which I just noticed is dated 2005/2006. For a city growing like Shanghai, it might as well be from the Ming Dynasty, or is it the Song, I always get those two confused. Which one started maps.

I have a pretty good sense of direction, so after I walk for a while thata way, and make a left, then walk some more thisa way, I excepted to come across the garden. Nice try white man. Here is what I am beginning to notice about Shanghai. A few blocks past the modern glitter and steel, and you are in the slums, where the poverty appears to be extreme. The ramshackle living quarters form the base of Shanghai, and buttress all the wealth and high rises. My guess is that these poor workers, that fill these sad streets and dilapidated, tiny living quarters, are the working backbone that propels the growth of China.

[Steps down from soap box]

At this point I am exhausted, and have struck out twice. I have been walking for the better part of three hours. Time for a full retreat. I get lost for a bit, but manage to make my way back to the park and the subway station, when I see a sign that promises the Natural History Museum is only 800m away. OK, just so the day will not be a complete loss, I bite. I think the "m" in "800m" means miles. It was a nice walk, but no museum could be discerned from the towering skyscrapers.

I limp my way back home, ignoring a few friendly, "Hi, how are you"'s from the tea parlor paparazzi. I guess what I learned today was what roads not to take in Shanghai. Tomorrow will be a better day.