My Last Walk in Shanghai

I came to Shanghai looking for magic, and I found it on Huashan Lu. Every street here is wonderful, but there is something special about this one. It's what I was looking for when I came to this city. But it wouldn't be what it is without all the other unique and wonderful streets around it. You could spend a hundred years here, and try to walk every street and yet, every day you would find a new one that has it's own unique charm.

It's late Friday afternoon and lightly raining as I head for my last walk on my favorite street. The leaves on the tunnel of trees are falling like snowflakes. I'm not sure why I love this street so much, it just has that unique blend of houses, shops and boutiques, draped in mystery behind the high, distinctive walls that are to me, what is special about Shanghai. Heading south on Jiangsu Lu, make a left onto Huashan Lu and walk until get to Wulumuqi Zhonglu. Cross over to the other side of the street and walk back. Every street in Shanghai should be experienced from both sides, the view across the street is the real treat, if your too close you might not see what your supposed to see.

Before you come to Shanghai though, you will need advanced training in the art of walking. The best thing I can think of to prepare you for this, is to go to New York city and during rush hour, blindfold yourself and try getting across 5th Avenue. Once you can make it across without getting hit, and your out of the hospital, your ready for this city.

It is absolutely crazy here. You need the athletic skill of Jim Brown, with the steady nerves of a brain surgeon. If you want to live, when you step into the intersection, look all around you, even behind you; I'm not kidding. The cars and the motor bikes will be coming up the wrong side of the street and will turn either right in front of you, or behind you. Cars will push there way through massively crowded intersections. If the street's too crowded, the motor scooters will be coming up behind you on the sidewalk. What's amazing is that in the two weeks I have been here, I have not seen one person get hit, or one crash, even in the rain; while some of them are riding bikes and holding an umbrella. These people got skills. It is a ballet of motor transport and pedestrian maneuvering. My theory is that because anything, or anybody can be coming at you at anytime people are hyper aware, and don't assume anything. Those that do, perish.

And it's funny, there is not much anger in all of this. There are horns honking all the time, but it's not the long and angry American honk. "Your stupid, and I really want you to know how stupid I think you are." Here it's more informational. It's telling you, "I am running this red light, and I really advise you to stop, or hurry, your choice, but I don't want to hit you, and you don't want to be hit, so BEEEP." The sound of horns here is constant. At one point I was beginning to think they where attached to the gas pedal, and the brake. Until I realized, I don't think they have brakes.

I will be up early and on my way home tomorrow, so this is my last posting from Shanghai. The Grandfather, his name is Qiwang by the way, gave me a wonderful gift today. A beautiful book about the Shanghai Museum, which he knew to be my favorite sight here. But he was wrong, my favorite thing about Shanghai was him and his beautiful Grand daughter. They made me feel so welcome in this great magical city.