Flowery Smoking House

I finally found a museum today. The Shanghai History Museum is right under the enormous and distinctive Perl Tower, which is probably why I was able to find it. Everyone else was in line to go to the top of the tower, so I walked past all of them, resisting the urge to remind them that it's cloudy and raining outside. From there I was ushered immediately into the underground mall that houses the museum right below the tower. It was great. There is something so fascinating to me about the history of Shanghai. From the Opium Wars through the colonial occupation of the French and the British, to the notorious and industrious 1920's and 30's. I love the fusion of East and West.

The museum is a long winding hallway that is crammed with scenes from Shanghai's past. Some of the exhibits are life size depictions of blacksmith and textiles shops from the 10th century, while others are dioramas of all sizes showing street scenes and harbor views from bygone days. And yes, there was even a woman in a red dress and an opium den. Some of the dens provided female "companionship" and those are called "Flowery Smoking Houses" for quite obvious reasons.

I met the nicest older couple, maybe in their 60's, from New Zealand outside the Perl Tower. They asked me if I knew where the Sex Museum was. Unabashedly. "I have not heard of this museum" I said, but it's going on my list. It made me realize that sex here, or at least the display of it, is almost non-existent. On television, on the streets, the way everyone dresses, or doesn't dress, makes one believe that sex seems to be a forgotten topic. Being an American, it's very noticeable, and kind of refreshing. In Japan it's everywhere, in China, nowhere. Anyway the couple was really nice, and it was great fun getting to practice my English.

In the states I can go months without eating McDonald's, but when I am out of the country I start craving it. By the tower I spot the "Super Brand Mall". This is an eight story mega-mall packed with every western brand you can think of, Nike, Nautica, Sephora, and of course KFC, McDonalds and Starbucks. Starbucks is definitely wining the saturation war. I've seen about 2 McD's, 2 KFC's and 8 Starbucks, but the coffee thing does not seem to be catching on, as the Starbucks are pretty empty. Which doesn't bother me in the least.

It's funny how each area has it's particular "thing" for foreigners. Outside the mall and the tower I was approached by about 10 guys all wanting to sell me a watch. Maybe they are concerned that I might be late for tea.

posted 10/31 at 5Pm. Hey it's Halloween here, dam it I forgot to pack my Tinker Bell costume.